Kemper Profiling Amp HeadBut hauling around multiple amplifiers and cabinets is a grueling chore, a sacrifice of sweat and sore backs for the art. Running directly into the PA is a very appealing idea, if only you could still get a good sound. Luckily, this has become much more feasible over the last year.A number of companies have recently released standalone cabinet simulator pedals. These new cabinet simulators are distinct from the purely analog solid–state cabinet emulators of the past , in that the new line of emulators utilize more sophisticated approaches — such as cabinet impulse responses (IRs) — just like the big boxes do.The limited frequency response of a guitar cabinet is a fundamental signature characteristic of every electric guitar sound you've ever heard.
If you've never listened to the direct output of an overdriven preamp, you don't know just how ugly and fizzy that can sound.A real cabinet also has a pronounced low frequency hump due to the physical construction of the cabinet and speaker array, but also due to the interaction between a power amplifier's output transformer and the speaker load. This low frequency resonant hump is that 'thump' we're used to hearing from a guitar amp and cabinet in a room.RELATED ARTICLE.
What most of these new cabinet simulator pedals do is impose the frequency response of a real cabinet onto the signal using IR modeling. An impulse response is a special recording of a real guitar cabinet that is used to shape the entire frequency spectrum of an input signal using a process called convolution.Convolution shapes the input signal to conform to the frequency spectrum recorded in the guitar cabinet IR file. It's somewhat similar in concept to holding up a piece of colored glass over a camera lens, if you imagine that this piece of glass can alter the tone of every color in the image differently and to different degrees.With one of these new cabinet simulator pedals on your pedalboard with a preamp pedal (like the Two Notes Le Clean/Crunch/Lead or a real tube preamp pedal, like the Effectrode Blackbird), you can achieve the sound of a guitar amp and cabinet, direct to a mixer/PA/recording interface. Video editing software free.
Forget the backbreaking labor, your entire rig lives right on your pedalboard.Neunaber Iconoclast. Two notes Torpedo C.A.B. Speaker SimulatorThe most fully featured and dedicated cabinet simulator pedal out there right now is the Two–Notes Torpedo C.A.B. Not only does this pedal support cabinet IR files (and you can upload up your own IR files into it), the C.A.B. Also incorporates power amplifier modeling along with microphone modeling.The power amp and mic modeling make this pedal sound extremely convincing into a PA or headphones, with just drive pedals in front — not to mention how good it sounds with an actual preamp patched in. It even sounds decent as a standalone clean amp sim all by itself. It has multiple stereo outputs, a built–in USB audio interface, and a very full–featured software preset editor.BluGuitar BluBox.
BluGuitar Blubox Virtual Speaker CabinetThe BluGuitar BluBox is another cabinet IR simulator pedal, mono, with simple and straightforward controls. Plug your guitar and pedals into the line input, select one of 16 cabinet IRs, tweak the mic position knob, and patch the balanced XLR mic output (or unbalanced line output) directly into a mixer/PA or recording interface.While it may lack flexibility (no USB interface/software, doesn't support presets, can't upload your own IR files, and no power amplifier modeling), it's huge on simplicity and convenience.You can also patch your amp into the speaker level input, but it's not a load box, so you must also patch the 'speaker thru' output into a real cab or load box. In this configuration, you can use the BluBox as a cabinet–emulating DI for the front–of–house sound, while using a real cabinet for stage monitoring. Digitech CabDryVR DualCabinet Simulator Digitech CabDryVRThe Digitech CabDryVR also employs cabinet IR files (with seven guitar and seven bass cabinet IRs built in), but it's a dual cabinet simulator pedal with stereo I/O. The controls for this pedal are also simple and straightforward, there are no presets, no USB/software, and no power amp emulation.Each output has a separate cabinet selector with independent Size & Level controls. You can run it as a dual/stereo cabinet rig, or set one of the outputs to pass and dry signal in parallel with a cabinet–emulated signal on the other output. The Guitar/Bass cabinet switch is global and affects both channels, so you can't use both guitar and bass cabinets together.If you're looking for a portable gigging or recording solution on budget that won’t accommodate an expensive rig–in–a–box simulator, or if you just really like your tube preamps and analog drive pedals (and no one can blame you, of course), then this new crop of cabinet simulator pedals are worth checking out.
Im sure this is a silly question but I am a noob when it comes to cabs. I never really had to worry about this in the past.
So I just bought a brand new Peavey 6505+ and a new yet used Marshall JCM 900 1960A cab, and the connections on the back are not as straight forward as they are on my peavey cab. I want to make sure I do this correctly so I don't damage the head.Here is a pic of the back of the cab and the settings on the 6505+.How do I correctly connect the head for 1 cab use as well as 2 cabs for a full stack if I wanted too? And which ohm setting should be selected for both situations?I also do not know what mono and stereo means? Is mono single cab and stereo 2 cabs?Please if you can answer this, do so in idiot terms. LolThanks for any input. Thanks a lot guys! Ok so set the head to 4 Ohms if I decide to use the left output that says 4 Ohms.
Sony flashtool. Or set the head to 16 Ohms if I decide to use the right side input that says 16 Ohms. What if I select 8 Ohms?
Do I still just use one side even though they both say 8 Ohms? Or do I have that confused. LolI do have 2 cabs. What If I decide to connect them both?Err.
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After re-reading. I have the cab set to 8 Ohms and the switch set to mono. The head is set to 8 Ohms. I still use 1 cable though correct? Sorry, just read the rest of your post.if you want to use a full stack, you should use the 16 ohm jack on your marshall and the other cabinet should also be 16 ohms.
Head Amp Connection Cable
Two cables from the head, one into the 16 ohm input on each of the cabs. Set the switch on your head to 8 ohms.the stereo switch in the marshall cab: it splits the cab into the left two speakers and the right two speakers. It was/is useful with stereo poweramp and rack rigs through one cabinet, not really an incredibly common situation these days. You 'probably' won't ever need to use it. Ok, so Im starting to get it. So for 2 cabs I connect two cabs set the head to 8 Ohms and the two cabs to 16 Ohms.But Im confused about the currect connection for 1 cab. So I use 8 Ohms whether I am using 1 cab or 2?
Current I have been told to have the head at 8 Ohms and the cab set to mono and plug into which one.?? Im confusing myself. The left swicth is 4/8 Ohms and the Right switch is 16/8 Ohms. If I set the head to 8 ohms then I can use either 8 Ohms input on the cab right? Even though they have two ratings they are still both 8 Ohms? When do they change?Edit:Ok now I am SUPER confused.
I had a friend tell me to use 2 cables from both outputs from the head and then set the head to 8 Ohms, then use both 8 Ohms inputs on the cab. But you guys say only use one cable right?
Im sure this is a silly question but I am a noob when it comes to cabs. I never really had to worry about this in the past. So I just bought a brand new Peavey 6505+ and a new yet used Marshall JCM 900 1960A cab, and the connections on the back are not as straight forward as they are on my peavey cab. I want to make sure I do this correctly so I don't damage the head.Here is a pic of the back of the cab and the settings on the 6505+.How do I correctly connect the head for 1 cab use as well as 2 cabs for a full stack if I wanted too? And which ohm setting should be selected for both situations?I also do not know what mono and stereo means? Is mono single cab and stereo 2 cabs?Please if you can answer this, do so in idiot terms. LolThanks for any input.
I looked up the manual for the Marshall cab online and it says that in the mono setting the cab runs at 4 ohms from the right input. I would set the thing to mono and set my amp at 4 ohms and plug into the right input. Stereo seperates the cab into two halfs, 8 ohms for each set of two speakers. In mono you will be running all four speakers. It says if you select mono and use the left input the impedance is 16 ohms.
Head Amp Connection Cabins
If you used that jack you would set your head to 16 ohms. Here is a link to the cabinets manual.For two cabs we would need to know the impedance of the Peavey cab.
Your jacks on your head say they are paralled so if your Peavey cab was 16 ohms you would be set. You could run both cabs in the 16 ohm mode and when parralled the total resistance would be 8 ohms and you would use that setting on your head. This is confusing isn't it?In either case, the switches on your Marshall cab are nothing to do with how many cabinets you run. They make the Marshall either two sets of two 8 ohm spearkers or four speakers that can be either 4 ohms or 16 ohms, depending on the switch position and the jack you plug into.
Amp Head Connect Cabinet
Bottom line is your total resistance has to be between 4 ohms and 16 ohms and your amp switch has to match whatever it is. Head set to 4 Ohms, then use 1 speaker cable into the 4 Ohms switch on the left of the cab. Always set the cab to mono.Head set to 16 Ohms, then use 1 speaker cable into the 16 Ohms switch on the right of the cab. Always set the cab to mono.2 Speaker cables is over kill and if the switch on the cab is moved accidentally from mono to stereo then bad stuff can happen, so you are better off using the above info using only 1 speaker cable.But the lefts and rights are reversed in the marshall info you linked to from what it looks like on the back of the amp. Is that because the right input on the back is really the left when viewing the amp from the front? I wanted to edit my post with the above info for anyone else with questions but it still wasn't approved.
The amp has only one 8 ohm output?It looks like the Mustang cabinet parallels all four speakers to get the 4 ohm impedance, suggesting the speakers themselves are 4 ohms each. Given that, there's no way to power all four speakers and still get an 8 ohm impedance to match your amp without resorting to a transformer.Plug your speaker cable into the amp, then plug the other end into the cab. Plug a secong plug into the second cab jack to open the other two speakers.
This should give you an 8 ohm load on the amp, but you'll only be powering two speakers. This second 'dummy' plug is the plug only; it could be cut off an old cable, just as long as the tip and sleeve aren't shorted together.Your cable should be a speaker cable, not a guitar cable. Making one up out of zip cord or SO cord is fine, just make sure the conductors are 18 AWG or bigger.I think your DeVille has a 60 watt output. The cab will handle 75 watts per channel, so you'll be okay there.
A Marshall cab usually has two jack sockets and a switch.In a 4x12 the speakers are usually 16ohm each, in pairs in parallel.Two 16ohm speakers in parallel = 8ohm load.Now these two pairs can be connected in series to give 16ohm total load or in parallel to give 4ohm total load.Usual Marshall arrangementSwitch=0 'Stereo' 2-off separate 8ohm loadsSwitch=1 'Mono' Socket A parallel = 4ohm load, Socket B series = 16ohm load.Connection lead must be a 'speaker cable' (not the guitar lead) with standard 1/4-in jack plugs. You can buy a commercial ready-made speaker extension cable, or make your own from mains lighting twin-flex, e.g. The cable for a table lamp. The home made ones are easily identified but the commercial ones I like to add some white paint to avoid confusion in the dark.
Blues Deville 410 output is switchable 4ohm or 8ohm.Therefore switch it to 4ohm and run a speaker extension cable from it to the Marshall cab 4ohm socket with all four 12-in in play - internal speakers disconnected.The internal compliment of 4x10-in are 8ohm each, these are configured as 8ohm total load (since they cannot be configured as 4ohm). These can be run in parallel with another 8ohm load with the amp switched to 4ohm load.Two 8ohm speakers in parallel = 4ohm i.e. R = 1/ (1/R1 + 1/R2)Two 8ohm speakers in series = 16ohm i.e. R = R1 + R2You may be able to put a higher load on the amp but do not use a lower load than it is intended for (this is not an old Fender that will tolerate a 2ohm load).If the Marshall cab is switchable to 16ohm total load, then you might run all 4x10 internal speakers (8ohm) in parallel with the 16ohm cab using the Deville switched to 4ohm outputNow R = 1/( 1/R1 + 1/R2 ) = 1/( 1/8 + 1/16 ) = 5.33ohm- this is do-able only when the amp is switched to the 4ohm output.